Niacinamide, centella, snail mucin: a glossary of K-beauty's star actives

Korean labels have a vocabulary of their own, and it is easy to get lost. Yet behind these sometimes surprising names are well-studied actives, usually gentle and almost always versatile. Here are the ones you will meet most often, and what they really do.

Niacinamide: the all-rounder

Also known as vitamin B3, niacinamide is one of the most versatile actives in skincare: it helps regulate excess sebum, fade the appearance of dark spots and even out skin tone, visibly tightens pores and helps strengthen the skin barrier. Well tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, it pairs easily with the rest of a routine.

Centella asiatica: the soother

Nicknamed cica, or “tiger grass” (legend has it that tigers rolled in it to tend their wounds), centella asiatica is the ally of sensitised skin. Its compounds, led by madecassoside, help soothe redness and discomfort and help preserve the skin barrier, especially after an overly strong active or sun exposure.

Snail mucin: the restorer

Yes, it really is snail secretion, harvested without harming the animal by reputable brands. Mucin naturally combines proteins, glycoproteins and hyaluronic acid: it hydrates, plumps and helps the skin regain its comfort. It is an ally for tired complexions and blemish-marked skin. Its slightly stringy texture surprises you at first, then you adopt it.

The other essentials

• Hyaluronic acid: a true water sponge that plumps the skin's surface. Apply to slightly damp skin to get the most out of it.

• Propolis: from the beehive, nourishing and purifying, ideal for blemish-prone skin that feels tight.

• Rice water and fermented rice: Korean-style radiance, inherited from traditional beauty rituals, for a luminous tone and softer skin.

• Ceramides: the building blocks of the skin barrier, essential for dry or weakened skin.

How to combine them?

The golden rule: introduce only one new active at a time, then watch your skin for one to two weeks. Niacinamide, centella, mucin and hyaluronic acid get along very well: that is the strength of Korean formulas, designed for layering. For more potent actives (retinoids, exfoliating acids), it is best to ask for advice, especially during pregnancy or on reactive skin.

To find out which ones to favour, take our skin diagnosis: it tells you which actives to look for based on your priorities. In store, our advisor shows them to you among the latest arrivals.

Mimi Seoul is a parapharmacy specialising in Korean skincare, co-founded by a doctor of pharmacy. Our advice is for information only and does not replace the opinion of a dermatologist.